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QUINTO GIORNO: VULCI "QUINTO GIORNO IN PRETURA"

Lucien Bonaparte, Napoleon's brother, at the end of his adventurous life, came to live in Italy, the Papal States. The Pope had made him prince of Canino . He, as well as a house in the Maremma also had a home in Senigallia. He was very rich but now is not doing so well because more than a couple of investments gone bad. So he answered positively when his second wife Alexandrine, wrote that many of Canino in Senigallia in Maremma did a lot of money digging up graves and selling the funeral. Lucien Bonaparte, who had twelve children to support, he returned home immediately, he put together a team of about a hundred workers and became one of the most active tomb robbers in the area. Lucien Bonaparte was a man in love with the Etruscan world and behave with respect and passion for everything he could find. At his death his wife Alexandrine did not have the same sensitivity and made of havoc. It seems that in every grave chose the best and destroy the rest to keep prices high. Together with Lorenzo Sganzini we went to see the tomb of Lucian, in the main church of Canino, and the Alexandrine. Outside the square, a couple of years there is also a monument to Napoleon's brother. It says: "He loved the freedom, the letters, the land of Tuscia when resting."

The land of Tuscia is that the municipalities of Canino and Montalto di Castro. But the city was once di Vulci, industriale, artigianale, commerciale. Noi siamo stati in quella che oggi si chiamerebbe "zona artigianale". Abbiamo visto una serie di fornaci e soprattutto le altissime mura della prima cinta della città, appena accanto al fiume Fiora e ad un ponte ormai crollato. Abbiamo visto anche la famosissima Cuccumella, la tomba con il tumulo più grande di tutta l'Etruria, con i suoi 75 metri di diametro. La Cuccumella è anche la prova che un'archeologia forsennata può anche fare un sacco di danni. Prima che fosse restaurata (molto bene) era stata ridotta ad una specie di campo di motocross e, alla ricerca di un inesistente tesoro, era stata tutta bucherellata dai vari ricercatori che si erano succeduti. Accanto alle due tombe etrusche adesso beneath the mound is all a maze of tunnels dug into the rock that make it seem a mine.

There was another scholar and archaeologist, in the nineteenth century, who toured the area of \u200b\u200bvolcano, a Florentine, Alessandro François. It was so demoralized in the face of the successes of others like Bonaparte, he had not yet found his grave. Then one day he comes across what is now called the "François Tomb". A grave containing beautiful paintings depicting the myths of Greek heroes and even the local hero Mastarna would become the sixth king of Rome, Servius Tullius. Beautiful frescoes. We entered two paintings in the tomb but we have not seen. For 150 years in the home of the Torlonia princes that with a great sense of ownership and disregard for the universal character of art, they "ripped" in a somewhat 'adventurous literally segandoli and bringing in the lounge of the Villa Albani. Only a few years ago, in exchange for an expensive renovation, could have allowed them to come out and be seen by all those who wanted it in two exhibitions, the first in Germany and the second in the Castle of the Abbey, now a museum containing many artifacts of the tombs Vulci. Torlonia finally come out from home to be returned to the world that should be keeper of the moral right to take advantage of the great masterpieces? Maybe if the Italian Government agrees to pay 15 billion lire needed. And so ended

our trip to Etruria. The journey will be continued by Sergio Valzania, director of Radio 2 and Radio 3, and Bruno Manfellotto, director of the Tyrrhenian Sea. We made a joke at last Joseph Della Fina, a professor of archeology who accompanied us during these five days. We did find, at the tomb of Cuccumella, a bronze coin that I had bought in a stall for two euro. Had a small gasp, when he collected. But it lasted a nanosecond. Our man is prepared and you are not fooled.

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QUARTO GIORNO: TARQUINIA

There are about 200 painted Etruscan tombs of Tarquinia in the subsoil. A magnitude. And you think that is only 3 percent of all the various tombs necropolis of Tarquinia . Today we visited half a dozen, from the great hunting and fishing that fills our hearts with serenity, the disturbing demons blue, one of the last dig, with the first stage of the descent into the underworld found in an Etruscan tomb. A distressing scene, with the demons that frighten the dead woman that none of it to board the boat of Charon, and with a horrible little devil who drives her. We started our tour by the Museum. I already knew the winged horses, but to see them again was a thrill. The winged horses, found a bit in '38 'to pieces under the temple of Goddess Queen in Civita, what remains of the ancient city of Tarquinia, are a cross between a relief and a sculpture in the round. They have an incredible lightness and seem about to take flight. Stay enchanted to watch them when you turn around and think that if you turned on again if you find them again. We went, me, Lorenzo and the entire troupe of Radio 3, to see the famous temple. Foundations are used to seeing nothing above, we were amazed to see this great temple, which we do not know who he was, mostly, with many steps above ground. Tarquinese I also called it the pyramid because actually seems to be the basis of a large pyramid. The plant is orthogonal but in the left corner is the base of a building (An altar? A temple?) That does not respect the alignment of the sanctuary. Why? Archaeologists have long been calling for. An explanation if they are also given. Clearly, the small building was a previous era, it was something sacred and revered, and this veneration was very important. So ... so it could be the testimony of the great Tarconte, the son of the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Lydian first arrived in central Italy from today's Turkey to establish the Etruscan culture and power? Tarconte, a myth, the founder of Tarquinia. More evidence? There are none. But Dr. Maria Cataldi, director of the Museum of Tarquinia recalls Stendhal who said that archaeologists say things based on suggestions, then tell another volta, poi ancora. Alla terza volta la suggestione è verità.
Poi abbiamo assistito ad un delitto. La storia è quella di un omicidio. La storia di un colono eubeo che si era spinto nel Tirreno fino in acque etrusche con la sua piccola nave ed era stato intercettato da navi di tarquiniesi. Era stato ferito con un ascia sul cranio, non era morto, ed era stato trasportato moribondo in città. Era stato tenuto prigioniero per quaranta giorni poi era stato ucciso con un colpo sulla tempia destra in modo rituale. Un sacrificio. L'ho chiamato il delitto Beta perché è avvenuto nel settore Beta degli scavi che siamo andati a visitare. Abbiamo visto le fondamenta di una piccola costruzione evidentemente adibita a sacrifici umani, siamo passati sopra i muri where they were found the skeletons of sacrificed children, one with a shot that pulled the head. They showed us the drain blood. And the place where they found the body of a young person with epilepsy that was probably considered a link between the land and the divine. One area, the Beta sector, where boys from the University of Milan dug quietly. We shudder as we tried some thinking what was going on in that place only yesterday, 2800 years ago.
And the tombs, where I made a sensational discovery. Or copied by the Etruscans or Altan Altan copied by the Etruscans. I incline to the latter. The men of Altan, its pillars and other workers are identical, but their identical to some figures I've seen in some tombs, the same body, same gestures, even the same dance. Checco, if I see, send me an explanation. Last visit to a limestone quarry where they were sawn and removed the large blocks for building houses and tombs. One of the many caves that run beneath the soil of Tarquinia. A huge cave, high, deep, like a cathedral in the subsoil, which once exhausted has served as a place for cultivating mushrooms, to store wine and now is a dwelling place for a dense colony of bats. Tomorrow is the last day of travel in Etruria, as for me and Lorenzo. Vulci tomb with its famous François.

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TERZO GIORNO: BANDITACCIA E PYRGI

Sulla via degli inferi, tra pini marittimi e cipressi, ci aggiriamo fra le mille tombe della necropoli della banditaccia di Cerveteri. Lo spettacolo è di quelli che si possono dimenticare difficilmente. A pochi chilometri da Roma esiste un parco archeologico unico al mondo. La cosmopolita, internazionale, sofisticata, colta e artistica Ceri scelse di circondarsi dei suoi morti seppellendoli sotto monumentali tombe visibili dalla città per non dimenticarli mai. Visitiamo la tomba dei rilievi, quella delle cinque sedie, quella dei capitelli. Vedo anche una tomba che assomiglia in maniera clamorosa al mausoleo di Arcore. Mi chiedo: ha copiato Berlusconi o hanno copiato gli etruschi? Electric train travel on long walks incredibly fascinating. There goes the superintendent Anna Maria Moretti, the daughter of archeologists, the grandson of archaeologists. One of the tombs is called Tomb Moretti. Visiting the graves is to understand how the Etruscans lived because the graves often modeled on the architecture and funeral homes are all the tools and all the objects that accompanied their lives. In connection with Radio 3, which we do exceptionally to 18 from Piazza Mazzini, Tarquinia, outside, play with my partner Sganzini Lorenzo, director of the cultural network of Swiss Italian Radio and count to ten in Etruscan, tun, zal, ci, hub, mac, you know, semf, cezp, nuzf, sar. I think I surprise him and instead he replies with a phrase in Etruscan. I was told that the big boss of the illegal trade of Etruscan named Giacomo Mancini, but they nailed a few years ago and now lives - they say - in Santa Marinella. It was an illegal job, but Hercules, the retired assistant to the excavations that we met yesterday, recalled that he was a true lover of Etruscan art, that when they brought some object is moved, trembling, sweating all over. After Banditaccia Pyrgi go to one of the three ports of candles, where we expect Giovanni Colonna, the pupil of Massimo Pallottino, now considered one of the great dell'etruscologia. Column for decades, is in charge of excavations of the temples of Pyrgi, almost from the beginning when the plow di un aratro di un contadino cominciò a sconvolgere le fondamenta delle costruzioni etrusche consentendo di accorgersi che sotto quella vigna si nascondevano dei veri tesori. Tra i quali le lamine d'oro con iscrizione bilingue. Colonna si muove tra i grandi massi di tufo che delimitano gli ambienti dei templi, i muri e le strade come fosse a casa sua. Questo
è il tinello, questo il salotto, questi i servizi…Ogni tanto dice: "Qui ieri abbiamo trovato un'iscrizione, qui la settimana scorsa abbiamo trovato un vaso". Pyrgi sembra una miniera di reperti. Colonna ci fa anche vedere le venti stanze delle "prostitute sacre", le sacerdotesse dell'amore, le ierodule. Quando i siracusani saccheggiarono i templi si portarono via un sacco di soldi. Column also tells the story of the soldiers taken prisoner by the Etruscans Focei the naval battle of the Sardinian sea, stoned by these parties, Montetosto. The place where they were "sacrificed" had become a cursed place. Who the past became crippled, lost his sight, became ill and died. Consulted the oracle of Delphi, the Etruscans organized gym games to erase the curse. And they succeeded. Today it's over to Pyrgi. Tomorrow we will be at Tarquinia.

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SECONDO GIORNO: CERVETERI

The Curse of Lucumone has struck again. After yesterday suddenly broke out the rear window of our bus left, today, after dinner, missing part of the tailgate. A mysterious Etruscan discreetly follow us and punish us. It is still not as Tutankhamen, but we are heading. Today we are at Cerveteri. We start from Vigna Parish, where a few years ago was unearthed a temple probably dedicated to Hera, that is Juno. We are in the center of gravity of the ancient city. You can see in the distance, between the olive trees and vineyards, the tombs of the necropolis of Banditaccia. A large hole, very deep, near the temple indicate where they took the tuff blocks for the construction of the temple. Everything is very abandoned, the grass is taking over, on the border, a few feet from the temple, a farmer built a small house. The tour takes us Vincenzo Bellelli, professor of archeology at the University of Palermo. But take us a couple of very nice dogs and cats. We pass a deserted tomb became pen for the goats. The temple is only half excavated. The other half is under a vine and grapes do not touch. Near the temple of Hera, an elliptical construction horseshoe. A theater? A place for political activity? Still do not know. Come on in the valley of Blackjack where there are ongoing excavations. Girls and boys, two Dutch, others in Palermo and Naples, shovel and broom in hand, are bringing to light a temple probably dedicated to the protection of the body. Emerge from the earth, among the fondamento oppure dentro pozzi profondi, ceramiche votive che rappresentano parti del corpo. Molte mani, molti piedi, orecchie, cistifellee, intestini, dita, organi sessuali maschili, uteri. Una immagine di due dee con tanti bambini attorno. Protezione delle nascite o sacerdozio infantile? Non si sa, per ora. Da un pozzo emerge un blocco di marmo con due lettere, la K e la Lambda. Ci aggiriamo dentro e fuori lo scavo e tra la terra anche noi diventiamo archeologi. Troviamo un naso, un occhio, un mento. Bellelli sequestra prontamente tutto ma ci lascia l'emozione e la soddisfazione del ritrovamento. Alle quattro gli archeologi staccheranno e alle sei, con molta probabilità, arriveranno i tombaroli a zappettare. Quando il momento è critico perché si prevede qualche ritrovamento, la notte viene assunto un poliziotto privato. Non si sa mai.
Ci accompagna anche Ercole, un anziano assistente di scavo oggi in pensione. Ha scavato qualcosa come 5 mila tombe. Ha trovato centinaia di oggetti. Alcuni bellissimi come la testa del giovane etrusco conservata al museo di Cerveteri. Quando visitiamo il museo ogni tanto ci dice: "Quello l'ho trovato io, anche quell'altro". Andiamo sulla collina di Sant'Antonio dove c'è il santuario dedicato (forse) ad Eracle. Qui trovarono il vaso di Eufonio, la più famosa coppa sacra del mondo. Alcuni tombaroli maldestri lo avevano fatto cadere da una rupe. Altri, più tardi, l'avevano recuperato pezzo per pezzo e l'avevano messo sul mercato clandestino a suon of millions. Here at Cerveteri when the season of the artichoke is not very good - they told me - they all become grave robbers, a little 'as the parties are all my fungaroli. One looks upon the precipice of the vessel Euphonium and see the great house that once belonged to Laura Antonelli. He had bought when he did not know that under his garden were two Etruscan tombs. All for today. Tomorrow, the great necropolis of Banditaccia and the excavations of Pyrgi. (CSF)

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PRIMO GIORNO: VEIO NELLA TOMBA DEI LEONI RUGGENTI

First day in Etruria. Together with Lorenzo Sganzini, director of the cultural network of Swiss Italian Radio and childbirth from Veii. We should go on foot but in reality we move from one site to another on a dell'Avis Ducato van. We are punished because an hour later the rear window exploded and we have to change half right. We think now that it is yet another mystery of Etruscan and maybe there is some curse that we ignore. We've just come from the sacred in fact dedicated to the goddess Menerva, in which the temple was found an eighty years ago the beautiful terra cotta statue of Apollo. After the sanctuary we go to places where Campetti are being entrusted to Professor Carandini's excavations of the University of Rome and a water area of \u200b\u200bworship. In short, a spa where they prayed and healed. Students tell us about someone in a votive inscription thanking Hercules and the waters have recovered from malaria. A few miles and we are in Ponte Sodo, one of the most romantic places in Italy, a stream that enters a tunnel dug 70 meters of tuff by Veientana more than 2500 years ago. And then the Acropolis, the walls of the citadel, the tomb of the founder, the first master plan for the world. Accompanied by the Director of the Etruscan Museum of Villa Giulia Francesca Boitani and our expert, etruscologi Giuseppe Della Fina, we finish the day with a strong emotion. We enter the last tomb discovered in the area, a tomb incredible, the most ancient Etruscan tomb paintings, four roaring lions and many ducks. Colorful designs and beautiful and the feeling of seeing things that nobody so far can see. A tomb discovered by police after a sorry grave robbers had indicated the location of the court to obtain a more lenient sentence. All for today. Tomorrow Cerveteri. (CSF)

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